See finished selvedge jeans.
For these mills, that were focused more and more on increasing output, the use of old selvedge looms became unwanted, making the looms obsolete due to their slower and less consistent production. Selvedge denim on roll. All selvedge denim comes from a denim mill in raw form. Once washed it is no longer raw. However, today, selvedge denim has become more desirable than non-selvedge for two reasons: Japanese mills are the unquestionable leaders in selvedge denim production, nowadays.
Selvedge tends to have a tighter, denser weave than non-selvedge. The higher density gives the denim a sturdier hand. The use of the older selvedge loom technology also creates variations on the denim surface due to inconsistencies in the weaving process compared to denim woven on modern looms. These variations make the denim visually unique and highly desirable. Denim mills that have committed to the production of selvedge denim understand and value the nuance and history of denim.
With their advanced knowledge comes a desire, as well as a self-imposed responsibility to make a superior product.
For these mills, yarn quality, dyeing techniques, quality control, design and innovation take heightened priority as compared to mills focused on commodity, high-volume production. The result is an undeniable increase of the overall quality of selvedge. Therefore, looking at the inside of the outseam, is an easy way to identify a pair of jeans made from selvedge denim.
There are variant spellings of the term: Both are grammatically correct. The denim edge is used in the jean construction. The outseam of the jean is the self-edge of the denim fabric — and is the identifier of selvedge denim. As the above photograph reveals, the selvedge denim has the white edge with blue thread. A non-selvedge jean will need a merrow stitch or cleaning stitch on this edge to keep the denim from unraveling.
The outside edge of the jean, called the outseam, is sewn using the outside edge of the fabric. This incorporates the self-edge into the jean construction. As seen in the first photograph of this article. Non-selvedge jeans require a cleaning stitch to keep the outseam from unraveling.
Higher quality denim brands use custom, beefy hardware designed to last, but of course that costs extra. There is no leather or cardboard patch along the belt line.
Amazon has their Goodthreads denim assembled in India. There are more than a few wavy seams and a handful of loose threads, especially on the inside overlock stitching. I would have liked to see reinforced belt loops and lined rear pockets for higher durability, but again, that costs extra.
I am pleasantly surprised that the waistband and hems are chainstitched — a retro aesthetic that harkens back to when the old school Union Special sewing machines were used. Front and back pockets are deep enough to hold an iPhone, too. Background So, what exactly is selvedge denim? Hardware You might notice that the top donut button, YKK zipper, and pocket rivets feel rather cheap when compared side by side to higher quality denim. Construction Amazon has their Goodthreads denim assembled in India.
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